Picked up the side panels from Danbo Lak on Friday, they look terrific. The bonnet and rear panel will be ready next week sometime. Saturday Neil came round and we spent a few really constructive hours getting loads of jobs done. It almost got to the stage of taking it for a spin around the block. We got both side panels riveted on (made much easier using the new air riviter!), exhaust manifold, exhaust, seats and carpets in and bled the brakes. Oh and started up the engine and checked the new heater worked and that there were no leaks!
Getting the manifold pipes through the side panel without scratching the paintwork was a challenge.
The contrast of stainless steel and black is very nice.
Next job was to install the wiper motor rotors and tubing. They all had to be cut to length and flared to keep them in place. The hardest was the last section towards the motor as it bends down towards the motor and the motor has to bolt to the aluminium bulkhead. If the bend is too tight the spindle won't go through the tube.
The last small section is to take up the extra spindle when the wiper goes from stop to full wipe position. It's worth buying a good flaring tool (I love tools!)
Measuring the spindle movement. It was actually only about 3cm but I left about 8.
The dash in place with demister vents, wiper blade spindles and water jet. I'll have to move the water bottle a centimeter or so as the wiper motor bolts catch the bottle brackets just at the wrong place.
Another job that I have to do is strengthen the front mounting plate for the Diff. James's bracket was pulled from the frame during a drive. Peter at GKD has fixed this for all new chassis but in earlier ones this seems to be a weak point. To be on the safe side I'll get an extra plate welded to the bracket to allow two more bolts.
Bracket in the centre with two bolts. I'll see what I can sort out tomorrow.
Also managed to attach and adjust the handbrake cables. Next few jobs include getting the tracking done. I set them to vertical while the car was up on blocks but I have to set toe out on the front which I'll do while the car is down on the ground. I beleive this is usually set to 0 degrees but for racing 0.2 degrees is probably better. I'll set it to 0 for the time being. I found quite a good site that explains the different terms for wheel adjustment: http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm.