Add plug to dashboard switches - It was always a problem to remove and replace the scuttle because the cables to the switches are too short, also the switches are fed from the front so it's difficult to plug the connectors back on.
Didn't find a connector big enough so had to use two instead.
Paint dashboard - I used polyester sealant to seal the windscreen to the scuttle, totally the wrong thing to use so it had to be scraped off and in the process it was better to repaint the scuttle. I'm going to use silicon sealant instead.
Looks great newly painted - thanks Mats
Move ECU - It was difficult to get to but the wiper motor was in the way of where I wanted it to go. I thought of a few options but in the end will have it in the same place but hold it with one bolt only, more easily accessible.
Add wheel spacers - not sure if these are really necessary but 15mm spacers give it a slightly wider wheelbase and brings the centre of gravity down, looks cool too.
Changed belt tensioner - this was done at the end of last year but still counts on my to-do list.
Redo console - Had a few more dials to add and removed the heater control (It's now always on). I'm pretty happy with the results.
Add gauges - Air Fuel Ration, Fuel pressure, Rev counter with shift light and analogue clock. I have kept the reverse sensor, brake fluid lamp, switch to turn on ODB-II wifi adapter and switch to turn on curtesy light.
Shift light attached to the left of the wheel, couldn't find a better place for it.
The extra lambda sensor was added late last year.
Add wind deflectors - I bought a set of Caterham wind deflectors, Caterham uses the same window brackets so the deflectors fit directly onto the hinges for the doors. They look really great and do actually deflect a lot of the wind.
New seat - Unfortunately the old driver seat had come away from around the seatbelt holes. It would have been too expensive to send back to the supplier so picked a new one up while over in the UK.
Add spare wheel bracket - I bought one from Caterham which was very expensive and also didn't come with instructions, I wrote to them and they said "We'll send you a photo when we get a customer car in that has one" How difficult is it to include a sheet of instructions or scribble down something for me; Not very professional when charging such a high price.
Add fasteners to boot cover - This was actually Pauls idea. The idea is to have two velcro straps that go around the roll bar and back on themselves to keep the front of the cover tight in place. I sent off for 50mm wide velcro strip and Anette machined it on for me. It looks great and adds a nice touch - thanks Anette.
Not so easy to see perhaps but the lights are higher in this image
Remove rust - Yes it happens even to kit cars. There wasn't very much but I wanted to deal with it before it went too far. Mainly front steering arms and driver floor under seat.
The car is back together now, just the windscreen wipers to put on and the scuttle to rivet in place. Also the soft top brackets needs improving. I have an electrical problem which means the hazzards work but the indicators don't. I hope I don't have to remove the scuttle again!
Anette and I went out for a nice test drive on Saturday. She runs really well (I mean the car!), so well in fact that I will have to buy better tyres for it. Foot down in second and it loses traction very easily. Will have to let the bank account settle down a bit before then though.
If anyone's interested I'm selling my Dragstar 1100. It's had a back seat ever since I finished the Legend, so to be fair I need to let it go - for a good price. 2002 model with 30,000km
Have a great spring!
Hey Steve, Great looking mods they finish the car really well.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Taffy
Hi Taffy, thanks. Did it work out with the connectors? I found some nifty connectors on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400595837125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_5008wt_1163 They arrived but haven't tried them yet.
DeleteAll the best
Steve
Those connectors look good, will take a look at getting some locally.
DeleteNot fitted the connectors yet, they are just too large to fit into the fuse box. So will either need to file them or get another couple of fuse boxes. Do you know the make you are using?
All the AL is cut apart from bonnet (stuffed up first time) and now onto drilling 10000 holes... :S.
Cheers,
Taffy
The fuse box came from GKD but I beleive it came from CBS originally. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/search?q=fuse+box
Delete(#FB8). Good luck with the drilling. My air riviter was a god send.
You'll be finished soon then?
Cheers
Steve
Hey Steve,
DeleteThat is the fuse boxes i think i have, will need to check were i ordered them from.
I have an air riviter all ready to go :).
Been making the bonnet, terrible job! Onto my 2nd at the moment.
I purchased the paint last night (Mini Pepper White with Martini Racing stripes), so hopefully on the road ~3 months or the middle of our winter!
Cheers,
Taffy
Hej Taffy,
DeleteIs it the bending of the bonnet that is tough? If I had my time again I probably would have cut some air intakes into the bonnet before I bent and painted it. I had help from a large industrial bending machine but I heard that air tanks can also be used.
Colour sounds great. You can still drive in an Aussie winter, it's equivalent to a Swedish summer!
Send picture if you can.
Cheers
Steve
Hey Steve,
DeleteIts just that i want it to perfectly line, so lots of fine adjustments required. I am going to have vented side engine panels and a large hump in the bonnet, so its going to need some tweaking.
I am using my welding gas tank which is working ok, a industrial roller would make it alot easier.
Cheers,
Taffy
Hi Taffy, Nothing like a good challenge. Can take longer if one is a perfectionist. I have some problems now with the battery. I had to get a smaller Varley Red Top 25 as the MAF is now facing backwards. Problem is the battery is really only for starting and goes flat all the time, even to the point now where it's buggered completely. They are expensive so I'd like to go back to a standard one. Problem is I have to redo where the air filter goes. I may have to go for the vents you mentioned last year and the lump in the bonnet. I'm off the road until its sorted out.
DeleteCheers
Steve
Does that mean the supercharger issues are sorted now? Great news, any idea what sort of power and torque it makes? Headlights look a lot better, I might have to do this myself. Centre console is nicely done as well - lots of good improvements :-)
ReplyDeleteI'm almost sure the problem has gone but need a few more runs. I'll take another dyno shortly and check. I just need to make sure it won't be wasted.
ReplyDeleteI Need to drag the scuttle off again to solve the indicator problem. It's always worth testing everything before putting things back together again.
How much are Yokohama AD08s in the UK?
That's great to hear about the SC issues.
DeleteI had that exact indicator problem on Thursday - I discovered it en route to my MOT :-( Turned out to be a loose wire on the back of the hazard switch, so check that first.
I found AD08s very good, BUT, they don't make them in 15" 225 width (which seems about right for the rear of my car). I think they're about £80 each in 15". I'm about to buy some R888s in 205/225 width, and will see how those fare. Probably not suitable for mainly road use in Swedish weather though, for your needs I would think AD08s or R1Rs would be ideal.
Fixed! Thanks for the tip Dave. It was actually a couple of swapped wires on the new connector I added. That's why I had problems with the fuse to the heater fan blowing too. Did you manage to get your hazard switch LED to blink too? Didn't work for me.
DeleteI gave Yokohama in Sweden a call and they mentioned the Advan Sport V105's too, almost half the price to the AD08's but still very good grip even in wet.