After a really restless night, thinking about what could have gone wrong I went down to the cellar this morning to try the compression one more time. Low and behold it shot up to about 15 bar (217 PSI). But why? Anyway wasn't going to worry about it, strait after work came home, tested again and same value. So on to the next stage. Drained the water and added the new fan temperature switch I received today and then filled up with half water and half Glycol. Put back the coil-overs, fuel pump cables and then turned the key!
Burst into life! A lot of oil burning off from here and there but that soon stopped. Revved up to a little over 3000 revs to fill the chain tension-er
Compression after running engine was:
Cylinder 1 = 16 bar (232 PSI)
Cylinder 2 = 15 bar (217)
Cylinder 3 = 16 bar (232)
Cylinder 4 = 15 bar (217)
Cylinder 3 showing 16 BAR
Now I have drained the oil and will fill with new synthetic oil and run it in for 3-400 miles. Just need to put a seat and a seat belt in and get a few other things bolted back.
Almost a whole car again!
The weather is not so good at the moment, rained hard yesterday so I thought it best to put the windscreen wipers back on. Headlights are back on and working as well as the steering rod.
Tuesday 11th
Fredrik and I tried to bleed the clutch master cylinder but with all the air out it still didn't work. The problem was the angle I had to insert the master cylinder was quite acute so the push rod had missed the release lever. All the bleeding in the world wouldn't have fixed it. To solve it I held the push rod in with a band of cloth and inserted the cylinder so it was in line with the release lever but not fully in place. Then slipped the cloth out so the push rod could seat itself nicely. Bled it again and it worked fine.
Installed the drivers seat and belt, fixed the faulty front offside repeater and took it out for a slow drive around the neighborhood.
Idling is unstable and it stalls but it'll improve. Main issue, I mentioned there were four ways to put the gear lever on and only one is right, well I chose a wrong way so in third gear the lever hit the driveshaft to gearbox coupling. Bit annoying as I have to remove the cab heater again. Will fix it in the morning ...
12th October
I fixed the gear lever without removing the heater box. Took it all out and started again.
This is what the BMW parts catalogue says for an M44, the bent part of the selector rod (8) that connects to the gearbox faces upwards. But because the GKD has a large cylindrical adapter between the gearbox shaft and the drive shaft, the selector rod must face downwards otherwise it will hit the adapter in certain gears.
The drive shaft adapter
This is how it should be
I put back the air-filter and filter housing, got the bonnet back on and took her out for 125 easy, trouble free miles. Kept the revs below 3000 most of the time and then a few times slow acceleration up to 4500 max and slowly back to 1500-2000 miles, stopping occasionally to cool down. The more miles I did the better the engine seemed to run. Still stalling most of the time at traffic lights but occasionally it would idle nicely. Starting the engine the revs inclined to go directly up to 3500 and back again to 1100.
Funny but having to remove the steering column to get the engine out and then putting it back, the steering has become much easier and smoother. As mentioned the gear shifting has improved. Early days but the fuel consumption has greatly improved too but I'll reserve judgment until the running in has been completed - another 375 miles left to go!
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